The most ferocious dogs

Top 10 Most Dangerous Dog Breeds

22 reported dog bite related human fatalities in the United States in 2004. 2005 - 29 human fatalities. 2006 - 26. In 2007, there were 33 human fatalities. 45% of the attacks occurred to adults over the age of 18, and 55% occurred to ages below. Pit bull type dogs were responsible for 67% of fatalities, the next closest breed was the rottweiler at 12%. But all dog breeds are potentially dangerous. In 2000, the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) reported that 25 breeds of dogs were involved in 238 fatal dog bites from 1979-1998. Here it is the compiled list of the most dangerous dog breeds:

1. Pit Bulls (Weight: 55-65 lbs.) Pit bull is one of the most brave and dauntless dogs that usually takes on any opponent. Therefore they take part in dog fighting. It is common knowledge that this dog breed can even mangle the human to death as pit bull locks its jaws onto the booty until it is dead.

2. Rottweilers (Weight: 100-130 lbs.) Due to their intense territorial instinct these dogs are very aggressive. Rottweilers are commonly used as guard dogs.

3. German Shepherds (Weight: 70-100 lbs.) This breed of dogs is known as a smart and vigilant one. As German Shepherds proved to be confident and fearless local authorities such as the police K-9 unit use German Shepherds as a police dog.

4. Huskies (Weight: 44-66 lbs.) Despite of their energy and intelligence this breed is not regarded a good guard dog. It is caused by its kind temperament and personality characteristics. However it should be marked that between 1979 and 1997 fifteen fatal cases were caused by huskies.

5. Alaskan Malamutes (Weight: 75-100 lbs.) This breed requires a lot of exercises to be happy as being bored they become disobedient. On the whole their characteristic features are energy and activity.

6. Doberman Pinschers (Weight: 65-90 lbs.) Doberman Pinschers are famed by such features as alertness, intelligence and loyalty. Therefore they are considered to be one of the best guard dog breeds. The dog usually attacks only in case its family is in danger or when being provoked.

7. Chow Chow (Weight: 50-70 lbs.) The Chow Chow seems to be distant and independent, however they require staunch attention. If badly bred they can become aggressive dogs.

8. Presa Canario ( Weight: 80-115 lbs.) It is well known that an attack of this guard dog can bring to the death any prey. One of the main features of this dog is fearlessness, huge power and man-stopping ability.

9. Boxer (Weight: 50-70 lbs.) These dogs are intelligent, frisky and full of energy. It is not so easy to train them as they are self-willed breed. In addition, boxers are not typically aggressive by nature.

10. Dalmatian (Weight: 40-70 lbs.) This breed is distinguished by intelligence and perfect memory, independence and survival instincts. Sometimes Dalmatians can be aggressive towards people.

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- For each US dog bite fatality there are about 670 hospitalizations and 16,000 emergency room visits, 21,000 other medical visits (office and clinic), and 187,000 non-medically treated bites
- 46.1% (nearly half) of dog bite injuries were triaged in emergency rooms as "urgent-emergent"
- Dog bites are the second highest reason why children seek emergency treatment

That's about 60,000 bites per fatality and that information is dated. It is reported today that a US citizen is bitten by a dog every 75 seconds.

The most famous dog in the world

1 . Hachiko: The World’s Most Loyal Dog

Dogs are known for being loyal companions -- but we've never met any as faithful as Hachiko, an Akita from Japan who spent 10 years waiting for his master.

If you’ve ever seen the canceled-before-its-time (but now revived!) show Futurama, you’ll probably remember Bender, the alcoholic robot; Leela, the beautiful one-eyed captain; and Philip J. Fry, the bumbling pizza delivery boy who was cryogenically frozen for a thousand years before joining the Planet Express intergalactic mail delivery team. But do you remember Fry’s loyal, loving dog, who waited for his master until the end of his life? If you didn’t think a cartoon character could make you cry, it might be time to reevaluate after you watch this heart-wrenching scene.

Now, of course, Fry’s dog never really existed (nor did the murderous Killbots, luckily), and you might scoff at the idea that any canine could really exercise such supreme loyalty. After all, your dog forgets that you’re alive whenever your sister stops by bearing bags of Pupperoni. And while it’s true that most animals are more loyal to their meals than to their masters, we know of an amazingly faithful dog that could be a real-life counterpart to Fry’s ever-loving pooch: Hachiko, an Akita from Tokyo.

Hachiko was brought to Tokyo in 1924 by his owner, a college professor named Hidesamuro Ueno. Each day, when Ueno left for work, Hachiko would stand by the door to watch him go. When the professor came home at 4 o’clock, Hachiko would go to the Shibuya Station to meet him.

Though this simple act alone shows a tremendous amount of loyalty, that’s not the end of it: The following year, Ueno died of a stroke while at the university. Hachiko didn’t realize that he was gone, and so the dog returned to the train station every single day to await his master. He became such a familiar presence there, in fact, that the station master set out food for the dog and gave him a bed in the station. Even so, Hachiko never shifted loyalties –every day at 4 o’clock, he hopefully waited by the tracks as the train pulled in, searching for his best friend’s face among the people getting off.

Hachiko’s love for his master impressed many people who passed through the station, including one of Ueno’s former students, who became fascinated by the Akita breed after seeing Hachiko. He discovered that there were only 30 Akitas living in Japan, and began to write articles about Hachiko and his remarkable breed, turning the world’s most loyal dog into a household name, and creating a resurgence in popularity for the Akita.

Hachiko died in 1935, after 10 long years of waiting for his master. But the dog would not be forgotten –a year before his death, Shibuya Station installed a bronze statue of the aging dog, to honor its mascot. Though the statue was melted down during World War II, a new version was created in 1948 by the son of the original artist. Go to the station now, and you’ll be able to see the bronze statue of Hachiko – still waiting, as ever, for his master to come home.

Want to learn more about Hachiko and the amazing Akita breed? Watch Hachi, the movie based on his story (co-starring Richard Gere), or check out these great books:

2. Laika - the first dog in space

Aboard the Soviet's Sputnik 2, Laika, a dog, became the very first living creature to enter orbit. However, since the Soviets did not create a re-entry plan, Laika died in space. Laika's death sparked debates about animal rights around the world.
Dates:
Launch on November 3, 1957
Also Known As:
Kudryavka; Layka; Muttnik
Overview of Laika:
The Cold War was only a decade old when the space race between the Soviet Union and the United States began. On October 4, 1957, the Soviets were the first to successfully launch a rocket into space with their launch of Sputnik 1, a basketball-sized satellite.

Approximately a week after Sputnik 1's successful launch, Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev suggested that another rocket be launched into space to mark the 40th anniversary of the Russian Revolution on November 7, 1957. That left Soviet engineers only three weeks to fully design and build a new rocket.

The Soviets, in ruthless competition with the United States, wanted to make another "first;" so they decided to send the first living creature into orbit. While Soviet engineers hurriedly worked on the design, three stray dogs (Albina, Mushka and Laika) were extensively tested and trained for the flight.

The dogs were confined in small places, subjected to extremely loud noises and vibrations, and made to wear a newly created space suit. All of these tests were to condition the dogs to the experiences they would likely have during the flight. Though all three did well, it was Laika who was chosen to board Sputnik 2.

Laika, which means "barker" in Russian, was a three-year old, stray mutt that weighed thirteen pounds and had a calm demeanor. She was placed in her restrictive module several days in advance and then right before launch, she was covered in a alcohol solution and painted with iodine in several spots so that sensors could be placed on her. The sensors were to monitor her heartbeat, blood pressure, and other bodily functions to better understand any physical changes that might occur in space.

Though Laika's module was restrictive, it was padded and had just enough room for her to lay down or stand as she wished. She also had access to special, gelatinous, space food made for her.

On November 3, 1957, Sputnik 2 launched from Baikonur Cosmodrome (now located in Kazakhstan near the Aral Sea). The rocket successfully reached space and the spacecraft, with Laika inside, began to orbit the earth. The spacecraft circled the earth every hour and forty-two minutes, traveling approximately 18,000 miles per hour. As the world watched and waited for news of Laika's condition, the Soviet Union announced that a recovery plan had not been established for Laika. With only three weeks to create the new spacecraft, they did not have time to create a way for Laika to make it home. The de facto plan was for Laika to die in space.

Though all agree Laika made into space and successfully lived through several orbits, there is a question as to how long she lived after that. Some say that the plan was for her to live for several days and that her last food allotment was poisoned. Others say she died four days into the trip when there was an electrical burnout and the interior temperatures rose dramatically. And still others say she died five to seven hours into the flight from stress and heat.

However, she certainly did not live beyond six days into trip, because on the sixth day, the batteries in the spacecraft died and all life-support systems failed. The spacecraft continued to orbit the earth with all its systems off until it reentered earth's atmosphere on April 14, 1958 and burned up on reentry.

Laika proved that it was possible for a living being to enter space. Her death also sparked animal rights debates across the planet. In the Soviet Union, Laika and all the other animals that made space flight possible are remembered as heroes.

Information about Hunting Dogs

Hunting dogs were bred primarily to work with people to hunt animals, fish and birds. Hunting dogs have been bred to suit varying environments and climates. Some Hunting dogs were bred specifically to work in water whilst other dogs are more suited to work on land and many of the dogs are comfortable and capable of working in either land or water environments. The evolution of the many breeds of Hunting dogs were dictated by the changing requirements of man. Hunting Dogs have been bred specifically to enhance their skills in helping man to hunt. Hunting dogs have been used by man dating back to Antiquity when their very survival was dependent on their hunting skills. The quarry sought provided man with food, clothing and even the hides were used for shelter. The advent of new agricultural methods, animal husbandry, manufacturing and new weapons saw the diminished need for Hunting dogs in modern times. The evolution and History of the Hunting Dogs was inextricably linked with man's own evolution.

The Evolution of Hunting Dogs - The Sight Hounds

The Hunting dogs in the category of Sighthounds specialise in hunting their quarry by sight rather than scent. Sighthounds have distinctive characteristics, features and traits which are perfect for hunting. The Afghan Hound is a good example of this with its padded paws and powerful legs which gave them the equal abilities to skim across sands or snow and to climb rocky mountains. Sighthounds, as their very name indicates, have extremely good vision. They also have a long jaw and lengthy neck which assists them in sighting their quarry. Their lean muscular body, deep chest and long powerful legs essential assets when following any fast and agile prey.

Hunting Dogs History & Evolution - The Scent Hounds


The Hunting Dogs categorised as Scent Hounds specialise in following the scent or the smell of its quarry. It was not necessary for Scent Hounds to be as fast and agile as Sighthounds - they do not need to keep their quarry in sight. Scent hounds as Hunting Dogs are built for endurance. They can follow a scent for long distances and even across running water. Scent Hounds have distinctive characteristics, features and traits which are perfect for their purpose as Hunting Dogs. They have large noses which have deep, open nostrils and their lips are loose and moist, designed to pick up scent particles and follow the trail of an animal. Their ears are long which concentrates the scent on the nose. Their bodies are designed for endurance, an essential asset when following any scent trail - a major asset for one of the Hunting Dogs. The Bloodhound, as pictured above, was bred originally to hunt wolves, deer and large game. Man's requirements changed with new hunting technology and the dogs role changed to that of a police dog to track missing people, fleeing suspects, or escaped prisoners.

Hunting Dogs Evolution & History - The Hound Dog Breeds

Hunting Dogs in the Hound Dog Group have been bred to chase (or hound) a quarry by sight or smell, or a combination of both senses. The Sight hound Hunting Dogs have exceptional eyesight, combined with the speed and stamina necessary to catch the intended prey once seen, typical examples being the Greyhound and the Whippet. Hunting Dogs which rely strongly on the sense of smell to follow the trail of a prey, such as the Bloodhound, quite literally follow their noses, speed and eyesight is of less importance.

Hunting Dogs Evolution - Sporting Dog Breeds - Retrievers, Pointers and Setters


Hunting dogs categorised in the Sporting Dog group hunt by air scent, as opposed to ground scent. The Retriever, Pointer and Setter dogs were bred selectively which resulted in them fulfilling the needs of man. Hunting Retriever dogs find and return killed game to the hunter. Some Retrievers are especially equipped, for instance with a water-repellent coat and webbed feet, for retrieving downed waterfowl. Hunting Pointer dogs stand in front of their quarry, with their nose and body rigidly still , thus directing (or pointing) the hunter to its location. Hunting Setter dogs were originally trained to set, or crouch, in front of game preventing the escape of the quarry. The hunter would make the capture with a net. The picture above demonstrates how other breeds of Hunting Dogs actually chased their quarry into a waiting net. The African Basenji Dog was used for such hunting. They chased their prey, such as small antelopes, into hunting nets or out into the open where their quarry could be shot with a gun or a bow and arrow. Man's own evolution and development in technology moved the traditional hunting methods away from primitive tools and nets - the Hunting Sporting Dogs were then called the Hunting Gundogs.

Hunting Dogs History and Evolution - The Terrier Dog Breeds


Hunting Dogs categorised in the Terrier group were developed to hunt and kill vermin. The vermin included rats, mice and other predatory animals such as foxes which might raid a farmer's produce and livestock. The very nature of these tasks required an energetic, tenacious, brave and determined Hunting dog and the Terrior breed was perfect for such work.

Evolution Hunting Dogs - The Otterhound


The Otter Hound - Otterhound and is a dog of considerable size and was bred originally to hunt the otter in order to ensure the trout supply in rivers. It's origins can be dated back for thousands of years and it is classified as one of the Hound Dog Group of Hunting Dogs. The above picture shows an Otter hound looking on at the hunters who have speared the luckless otter and have raised the animal out of the reach of the dogs. The picture also illustrates how the Otterhounds hunted in packs. The history and evolution of the various breeds of Hunting dogs continues today. The Otterhound, a scent hound, is a perfect example of this evolution process. The Otter Hound ( Otterhound ) verged close on extinction when its targeted quarry, the otter, was made a protected species.

The Hunting Dogs and their quarry
The Quarry of Hunting Dogs varied considerably from Fox Hunting to Coon Hunting and from Wolf Hunting to Deer Hunting. Listed below are some Hunting Breeds and their particular quarry:

Fox hunting dogs - American and English Foxhounds
Deer Hunting dogs - the Irish Wolfhound
Hog Hunting dogs - the American Staffordshire Terrier - see Bay Dogs
Wolf Hunting dogs - the Borzoi
Badger Hunting Dogs - the Basset Hound
Bird Hunting Dogs - the Sussex Spaniel
Rat Hunting dogs - the Cairn Terrier
Coon Hunting Dogs - the Black and Tan Coonhound
Bear Hunting dogs - the Neapolitan Mastiff
Elk (moose) Hunting dogs - the Norwegian Elkhound
Duck Hunting dogs - Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever
Rabbit and Hare Hunting dogs - the Beagle
Big Game Hunting dogs - the Rhodesian Ridgeback

Why Do Dogs Lick People?

You’re taking a moment to relax in front of the television. The family dog wanders over to you and plops down at your feet. Your furry canine friend begins to lick the exposed skin on your leg and continues until you’re all slobbered up. The licking continues until you feel that your skin has been cleaned to the point where it may disappear. Have you ever wondered just what your dog gets out of licking you?
Most dogs are so intent on the licking process that you know there has to be a good reason for doing it.

Some people say the dog’s licks are canine kisses that prove the dog likes or loves you. Fido is showing you that he cares about you. While this may be one reason that dogs lick people, it is clearly not the only reason why they perform this act.
Another theory is that dogs lick you because they were taught to do so by their mother from birth. Female dogs that give birth lick the new puppies to stimulate them to start breathing and to clean them up. Licking is important to the survival of puppies. The licking process is a natural instinct that they quickly learn from their mothers.
Licking is also a submissive gesture. In the wild, the more subordinate dogs will lick the more dominant ones. This helps to maintain harmony among the members of the pack. By licking you, the dog is showing you that you are the dominant being and you are in charge.
Another reason that dogs lick humans is to gather information about them. Dogs use the scent receptors located in their nose and mouth to process information about a person. A person who is secreting sweat from his or her body is actually unknowingly sending information about him or herself to the dog. This is one reason why a human’s feet are so attractive to a dog. Human feet contain many sweat glands. Eccrine glands release moisture that contains salts, water and waste products. Some dogs love the taste of salt.
Sebaceous glands, which are found near hair follicles, release sebum. The combination of the sweat and sebaceous gland secretions provide a lot of detail about you to an inquisitive dog that can tell if you are afraid, stressed or happy.
Dogs also enjoy licking because the act releases endorphins that allow the dog to feel pleasure and a sense of security and comfort.
In some cases, a dog will go all out to lick his or her owner’s face, hands or legs when strangers are around. Experts believe that this could be the dog’s way of showing that you are important to them and that they care more about you than they do the stranger.
While dogs do have good reasons for licking people, some folks don’t understand nor do they care to try to grasp why they are being slobbered on. It is important to train your dog in a manner that he or she does not get carried away with the tendency to lick people.

Why do dogs lick their feet

Dogs lick their feet for a variety of reasons. A dog will spend time cleaning its feet with its tongue especially if it is active outside. Dirt, stones and pieces of wood and other material can become lodged under a dog's nail and between the pads of its feet.

A splinter or cut can easily become infected if it is not kept clean. A dog must spend time licking its feet to keep them clean. Dogs that spend much time outdoors will have to clean its feet often. Reasons that may cause a dog to lick its feet include stress, boredom and hygiene. Regular exercise and quality time spent with the dog will improve a dogs stress and boredom. Other causes that can make a dog lick its feet include injury to the toenail, foot pad and between the foot pads.

Splinters, cuts, insect bites and burns can cause a dog to lick its feet. Medical conditions that cause irritation to the skin and foot area cause licking. Unless the injury or condition is effectively treated, a dog may lick its foot so that the area to develop a condition called lick granuloma. Lick granuloma may also develop if a dog is bored from either not enough socialization with its family or exercise. Red and raw sores are the symptoms of lick granuloma.

Allergies can cause a dog to lick its feet. Allergic reactions may be caused from plants, foods and substances. Injury including broken bones and infections may also cause a dog to lick its feet. If a nail is broken or becomes ingrown, the dog may lick at the area. Arthritis may cause a dog to lick its feet.

When a dog licks its foot or limps, it is important that you determine the cause of the activity. Your dog's feet are important to its health and if your dog suddenly begins licking its foot, you must find the cause for the licking.

Your dog's travels on its feet so it is important that a dog's feet are well maintained and healthy. You can help your dog by watching for any signs of unusual licking that may indicate a problem. You can keep the skin on the pads of a dog's feet by providing enough water and a healthy diet. You should take your pet to the veterinarian if you suspect that the dog has a problem underlying any foot licking activity.

do bull terriers get along with other dog

Bull Terrier Advice? Getting Along With Other Dogs?

I currently have two dogs. One is a 3 year old male Miniature Schnauzer. We've had him since he was a puppy. About 2 years after we got the Schnauzer, we adopted a female Shar-Pei/Lab mix. They both get along really well. The female is spayed, but the male is not neutered. We were recently offered the opportunity to adopt a male Bull Terrier (Spud/Frankenweenie). The bull terrier isn't neutered, but it's still a pup. Does anyone have any experience with Bull Terriers and other dogs? Would the fact that both of the males aren't neutered be a problem? Any thought or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

bull terriers are very hard to handle, even though they aren't the biggest things. they will try to be top dog, especially males. unless you plan to breed, i would not recommend keeping him unneutered.

another issue that you might find absurd (i assure you, i'm being serious) is that male bulls like to hump everything. this can be frightening to kids and smaller dogs, and it might start fights with bigger dogs. i was at a show once and i was walking my dog around when a bull terrier jumped out from under a judging table and latched onto my leg. they are strong. they can bruise you.

on the british show… i can't remember the name… they help people train their dogs. one episode was with a hyperactive, obsessive humping bull terrier. it took neutering and tons of training before anybody felt safe around him. so clearly this breed has a reputation.

of all the breeds i've dealt with, this is THE most difficult to handle. if he's still young you hopefully have a chance at instilling some manners and self control. if you do, he will be an awesome dog. if you don't, he might be a nightmare

the way to take care of a dog

How to take care of a dog

It is best if you do a bit of research about how to take care of a dog before deciding to accept a dog as a member of your household. Caring for a dog involves a lot of responsibility, since you will be the sole provider for your dog’s social, dietary and health-related needs. You will also need to be prepared to train your dog, since this is also a very important part of understanding how to take care of a dog. Here is a general guide that will familiarize you with how to take care of a dog, as well as provide tips to help you keep your dog healthy.

Puppy Care

Being aware of how to take care of a puppy requires a bit of a different approach than knowing how to take care of a dog. Puppies require special attention, since they are still in their “learning” stage. Encourage your puppy to interact with the world around them, and be open to new situations or environments. This is also known as “socialization”, and involves exposing your puppy to as many new things as possible. Socialization is a very important part of how to train a puppy, since it sets the foundation for future dog training. Most well-socialized puppies will be much easier to care for, since they tend to exhibit better behavior. It’s also important that you feed your puppy a special puppy-food diet for at least their first year. Growing puppies have different nutritional needs than adult dogs, and need to be fed accordingly. Just like knowing how to take care of a dog, knowing how to take care of a puppy requires that you do some research beforehand.

Feeding

Knowing how to take care of a dog involves proper attention to your dog’s diet. Though it may be tempting to purchase a low-quality dog food formula that is inexpensive, this can negatively affect your dog’s health. Understanding how to take care of a dog means that you are accepting the responsibilities associated with proper dog care. It’s recommended that you feed your dog a high-quality, nutrient-rich dog food formula that is balanced enough to ensure proper digestion. Checking dog food reviews is an excellent way of picking a high quality dog food.
In general, the first five listed ingredients in a dog food formula will make up the “bulk” of the food. Be sure that at least two of the first five ingredients are derived from high-quality protein sources. It’s also best to avoid dog food that contains artificial preservatives, colors or chemical flavoring.

Training

Part of knowing how to take care of a dog involves knowing how to train a dog. Dogs that are properly trained are much easier to manage, and can adapt more easily to new training programs. Proper dog training should ideally be started as soon as you bring a dog into your home. Understanding how to take care of a dog means that you will have to be sensitive to how quickly your dog can learn new commands. Different breeds of dogs have different levels of intelligence, and will learn at different speeds. The best way to be aware of how to take care of a dog in relation to training involves a lot of patience. Potty training in particular can be difficult, as some dogs need a bit of time to adapt to going to the bathroom outdoors.

Exercise

Knowing how to take care of a dog also involves an adequate level of exercise. Each year, thousands of dogs experience obesity-related health problems. If you truly care about how to take care of a dog, it’s important that you incorporate exercise into your dog’s daily routine. Exercise can be a brisk 30 minute walk, or an extended session of playtime.

Grooming

Another essential part of knowing how to take care of a dog involves attention to your dog’s grooming. Most dogs will need to be groomed at least twice per week, though some long-haired dogs may require more frequent grooming. Be sure to check your dog’s eyes, ears teeth and nails during the grooming process. In some cases, early identification of a health problem can save your dog from a serious medical condition. Decent grooming equipment can be found at any discount pet supplies store.

Veterinary Care

Proper veterinary care is extremely important when understanding how to take care of a dog. It’s best if you bring your dog in for veterinary checkups at least once per month. If you’re worried about costs, you may want to invest in pet insurance for your dog. Pet insurance can cover some or all of your veterinary bills, and will usually also cover emergency procedures. Many dog owners often underestimate how important veterinary care is for knowing how to take care of a dog.

Why do Dogs Bark and hơ to stop this

Why Dogs Bark

Barking is one type of vocal communication that dogs use, and it can mean different things depending on the situation. Here are some reasons why dogs bark:

Territorial/Protective: When a person or an animal comes into an area your dog considers his territory, that often triggers excessive barking. As the threat gets closer, the barking often gets louder. Your dog will look alert and even aggressive during this type of barking.

Alarm/Fear: Some dogs bark at any noise or object that catches their attention or startles them. This can happen anywhere, not just in their home territory.

Boredom/Loneliness: Dogs are pack animals. Dogs left alone for long periods, whether in the house or in the yard, can become bored or sad and often will bark because they are unhappy.

Greeting/Play: Dogs often bark when greeting people or other animals. It’s usually a happy bark, accompanied with tail wags and sometimes jumping.

Attention Seeking: Dogs often bark when they want something, such as going outside, playing, or getting a treat.

Separation Anxiety/Compulsive Barking: Dogs with separation anxiety often bark excessively when left alone. They also usually exhibit other symptoms as well, such as pacing, destructiveness, depression, and inappropriate elimination. Compulsive barkers seem to bark just to hear the sound of their voices. They also often make repetitive movements as well, such as running in circles or along a fence.

How to Treat Excessive Barking

Getting your dog to bark less will take time, work, practice, and consistency. It won’t happen overnight, but with proper techniques and time, you can see progress.

Here are a few tips to remember as you start your efforts to control your dog’s barking.

• Shouting stimulates your dog to bark more because he thinks you’re joining in. So the first rule is to speak calmly and firmly, but don’t yell.
• Most dogs don’t know what you want when you’re yelling at them to “shut up.” So train your dog to understand the word “Quiet!”

Here are two methods:

When your dog is barking, say “Quiet” in a calm, firm voice. Wait until he stops barking, even if it’s just to take a breath, then praise him and give him a treat. Just be careful to never reward him while he’s barking. Eventually he will figure out that if he stops barking at the word “quiet” he gets a treat (and make it a high level treat, such as cheese or chicken bits to make it worth more than the barking.)

Alternatively, you can teach your dog to “speak”, then once he’s doing that reliably, signal him to stop barking with a different command, such as “quiet”, while holding your finger to your lips (dogs often pick up body signals faster than voice commands.) Practice these commands when he’s calm, and in time he should learn to stop barking at your command, even when he wants to bark at something.

• A tired dog is a quiet dog. If your dog barks when alone, tire him out before you go. Take a long walk or run, play ball or take a trip to the dog park before leaving.
• Don’t allow problems to go on and on. The longer a dog does something, the more ingrained it becomes. Barking can give dogs an adrenaline rush, which makes the barking pleasant. And allowing a dog to bark in certain situations, such as when the mailman arrives, can eventually make a dog aggressive in those situations. What if your dog gets out one day as the mail is being delivered? Deal with barking problems as quickly as possible.
• Some medical problems can cause excessive barking, from bee stings to brain disease to ongoing pain. Older pets can develop a form of canine senility that causes excessive vocalizations. It’s always a good idea to have a pet checked out to be sure there’s no medical reason for a problem.

Once you know why your dog is barking, you can start working on ways to decrease his annoying habit. Here are some specific reasons why dogs bark, and how you can help lessen the noise:

How to Treat Excessive Barking

Getting your dog to bark less will take time, work, practice, and consistency. It won’t happen overnight, but with proper techniques and time, you can see progress.

Here are a few tips to remember as you start your efforts to control your dog’s barking.

• Shouting stimulates your dog to bark more because he thinks you’re joining in. So the first rule is to speak calmly and firmly, but don’t yell.
• Most dogs don’t know what you want when you’re yelling at them to “shut up.” So train your dog to understand the word “Quiet!”

Here are two methods:

When your dog is barking, say “Quiet” in a calm, firm voice. Wait until he stops barking, even if it’s just to take a breath, then praise him and give him a treat. Just be careful to never reward him while he’s barking. Eventually he will figure out that if he stops barking at the word “quiet” he gets a treat (and make it a high level treat, such as cheese or chicken bits to make it worth more than the barking.)

How to Treat Excessive Barking continued...

Alternatively, you can teach your dog to “speak”, then once he’s doing that reliably, signal him to stop barking with a different command, such as “quiet”, while holding your finger to your lips (dogs often pick up body signals faster than voice commands.) Practice these commands when he’s calm, and in time he should learn to stop barking at your command, even when he wants to bark at something.

• A tired dog is a quiet dog. If your dog barks when alone, tire him out before you go. Take a long walk or run, play ball or take a trip to the dog park before leaving.
• Don’t allow problems to go on and on. The longer a dog does something, the more ingrained it becomes. Barking can give dogs an adrenaline rush, which makes the barking pleasant. And allowing a dog to bark in certain situations, such as when the mailman arrives, can eventually make a dog aggressive in those situations. What if your dog gets out one day as the mail is being delivered? Deal with barking problems as quickly as possible.
• Some medical problems can cause excessive barking, from bee stings to brain disease to ongoing pain. Older pets can develop a form of canine senility that causes excessive vocalizations. It’s always a good idea to have a pet checked out to be sure there’s no medical reason for a problem.

Once you know why your dog is barking, you can start working on ways to decrease his annoying habit. Here are some specific reasons why dogs bark, and how you can help lessen the noise:

Territorial/Protective/Alarm/Fear: Because this type of barking is often motivated by fear or a perceived threat to their territory or people, it can be lessened by limiting what your dog sees. If he’s in a fenced yard, use solid wood instead of chain fencing. Indoors, limit access to windows and doors or cover them with an opaque film.

Boredom/Loneliness: If your dog barks excessively while you’re gone, you need to provide more activities or companionship to keep him from being lonely or bored.

Bringing an outdoors dog inside will lesson the noise impact on neighbors, and provide extra security for your home. It’s also safer because dogs left alone outside can face theft, escapes, poisoning, harassment, and other dangers.

But dogs can still bark inside if bored. So if your dog barks while you’re at work all day, get someone to walk your dog or play with her for at least an hour a day.

Providing something for your dog to do during the day also can help. Try leaving out a couple of food-dispensing toys, which come in different shapes and sizes. These can keep him busy for several hours, then he’ll probably take a nap.

Dogs that bark all night should be brought indoors. Dogs quickly learn to sleep quietly inside, and are added protection for your family.

You also can drop your pet off at doggie daycare two or three days a week, or take up agility, obedience, or another active form of dog training.

Greeting/Play: To stop a dog from going into a barking frenzy every time you come home or the doorbell rings, you’ll need to teach him other behaviors. One way is to train your dog to go to a spot and stay there when the door opens. It’s best if they can see the door, but not be too close to it. Pick a spot and practice getting your dog to go there and stay, but don’t touch the door yet. Use lots of treats and praise, making it a game.

Once your pet is doing this reliably, start opening the door while he’s in his spot.

Once you can open the door and your dog will stay in his spot, have someone actually come in the door. Of course your dog will break from the spot at first, but with time and practice, he’ll learn to stay in his spot when the door opens and guests come in.

Never reward your dog for barking at you when you come home. Do not pet him or even make eye contact until your dog stops barking and sits quietly. Then acknowledge him and praise him.

Attention seeking: Never reward barking. If your dog barks when he wants water, and you fill the dish, you’ve taught him to bark to get what he wants. If he barks to go outside, it’s the same. So teach him to ring a bell you tied to the door handle to go out. Bang the water dish before filling it, and maybe he’ll start pushing it with his nose to make the same noise. Find ways for your dog to communicate without barking.

If he barks and you see his dish is empty, wait a few minutes, go do something else, then fill it, so he won’t know his barking was effective.

Remember not to scold your pet. For a dog, that’s still considered attention. The key is to ignore your dog and what he wants , until he stops barking.

Separation Anxiety/Compulsive Barking: Separation anxiety and compulsive barking are both difficult to treat and should be handled with the help of a veterinary behaviorist or a certified applied animal behaviorist. Dogs with these problems often need drug therapy to help them cope while learning new, more acceptable behaviors.

Bark Collars. Should you use one?

There are a number of products on the market that promise to stop barking quickly. Collars that go on your dog can deliver audible or ultrasonic corrections to your dog, but they aren’t effective on all dogs. Citronella-spraying collars often work, but some dogs learn they can run them out of spray, then bark at will.

How to Treat Excessive Barking continued...

Shock collars, which deliver a painful jolt to your pet, can cause pets harm and may make dogs aggressive, especially if they associate the person or animal they are barking at with the pain.

Other off-collar devices can work well if your dog barks in a set area. Bark-activated water sprayers or noisemakers switch on when they pick up barking, shooting water at your pet or emitting an irritating sound. These can sometimes break a dog of barking in a given area, but they work best if you are home to reward your pet when he stops barking. That helps reinforce what you want your dog to do.

What not to do:

• Don’t encourage your dog to bark at some noises (a door slamming, people walking by) and discourage him from barking at others. Be consistent.
• Never use a muzzle or other means of constraint to keep a dog quiet for long periods or when they aren’t supervised. It can be dangerous to your pet.

*Debarking is very controversial and is considered inhumane by many. It does not address the underlying cause of the barking. It is a surgical procedure in which the folds of tissue on either side of a dog’s larynx, or voice box, are removed, leaving dogs with a raspy bark instead of a full bark. Complications are common and can be life threatening, including breathing difficulties, higher incidents of choking, and ongoing pain. Dogs also have been known to regain their voices after the surgery. The procedure does not stop the barking, it only makes it sound different.

Diarrhea in Dogs and Puppies - how to treatment

All dogs, at one point or another have had a bout of diarrhea. Most diarrhea lasts a couple days, however when loose bowels continue over a long period of time it is a cause for concern; especially if the diarrhea gets severe, and is uncontrolled liquid squirts. Think of the dog as your baby (human). If your baby has a soft stool in his/her diaper, it may not be a cause for you to seek your doctors advice. For instance, if you have tried a new food which upset the baby's belly. If this is the case for your puppy, it may be fine for you to treat it at home. However, if your baby, had uncontrolled diarrhea, you would seek a medical doctor's advise, as there could be an underlying cause. Like a baby, a puppy can dehydrate FAST from severe diarrhea. REMEMBER, diarrhea can be mild or severe and the treatments differ.

In a young puppy, diarrhea can be caused by viruses and parasites. A stool sample to the vet is a good idea to check for Coccidia (Coccidiosis), Giardia, Trichomonas or other infections. If your litter of two week old puppies gets diarrhea, it could be worms. Normally we do not worm pups till 3 weeks, but some do it at 2 weeks. When worms become active, it can cause diarrhea. If the diarrhea worsens, even after using a worming medicine, you may need to check for coccidia. The incubation period is 13 days, and the Dams often carry it. They would come in contact from the Dam at birth, or shortly after. They are not born with it. If a 13 day old puppy has diarrhea, it often means coccidia. This requires vet medicine to treat. It can be found in a stool sample.

Some dogs/puppies can get diarrhea from the excitement/stress of being away and then coming home.

Some dogs get doggy flu bugs, others may eat a strange food and cause stomach upset.

Diarrhea from change is common. You need to deal with it and not ignore it.

Ignoring diarrhea in a puppy lowers the immune system, and can dehydrate even an adult dog.

Puppies can get a bug much easier if they are down and weak, so diarrhea is not something to ignore.

Ask your vet for a sheet on what to do for diarrhea. Each vet has slightly different versions but they all have a sheet, as it is common.

The following home remedy is for early onset diarrhea. A dog with severe diarrhea, needs Vet attention, as he needs fluids.

The greatest worry with ongoing diarrhea is dehydration.

If you are treating the early onset of diarrhea, and the dog is not showing ANY signs of dehydration, you need to fast the dog for a day - no water no food. (I find that a full 24 hours is to long for a puppy under 8 months, and you may want to give her some bland food throughout the day, (rice and chicken), and a bit of water and then NOTHING until the next morning), small pups try 12 hours. This rests the tummy. For a dog or pup with secondary severe diarrhea (uncontrolled liquid squirts), omitting the water is NOT an option, they MUST have fluids, if dehydration is happening. But if dehydration is not a problem, and diarrhea is early onset, and controlled, omitting water for a bit helps. 12 hours is usually ok for a puppy. It is just to give the tummy a rest. This is easier done at night.

BUT... If the puppy has severe diarrhea, (progressed into more Serious Diarrhea), and dehydration could be a secondary problem, YOU MUST give the puppy water, or better yet, pedialac, or sub fluids (lactate ringer), under the skin intravenously, (talk to your vet). Mild diarrhea is soft stools, or pudding texture, serious diarrhea, is projectile, uncontrolled watery texture - LIQUID SQUIRTS.

Do NOT fast any puppy under 7 weeks. A young puppy, with diarrhea, usually needs medical attention immediately. Pups under 4 weeks can die quite quickly with diarrhea.

It can sometimes be hard to determine the cause of diarrhea unless further testing is done. It is a good idea to take a stool sample to your vet, if diarrhea, cannot be stopped in a couple days, OR if it has blood in it, or if it is watery squirts.

It is important to consume the same amount of fluids as the volume that has been lost in order to prevent dehydration.

So, if your dog has a couple runny poops, omitting water for a bit is ok. (For EARLY onset diarrhea.) To stop diarrhea, before it progresses to secondary severe diarrhea.

BUT... If the diarrhea, has turned secondary, and is coming out as fast as you put fluids in, intravenous may be needed. DO NOT OMIT water on a dog, with uncontrolled severe diarrhea.

Diarrhea can be treated at home in the early stages, and if caught early, turned around. The key with diarrhea is to stop it fast, BEFORE it turns into secondary diarrhea with dehydration. Once the immune system is down, it is an invitation for other problems.

If the dog is vomiting and or has diarrhea, and is dehydrated then you must seek VET attention to administer fluids intravenously. A good test method for dehydration is, if the skin on the dog's neck stays up, when lifted and doesn't drop down instantly in place when released.


RECIPE for early onset diarrhea,

Pepto Bismol every 3 - 4 hours. (You will need a syringe... good luck!)
liquid pink Pepto 1/2 to a tsp each time, for every 10lbs of dog


PEPTO... still highly recommended by the vets. For puppies over 6 weeks old... (for younger pups, call your Vet)


2nd Day: (or first day with puppies)

Boil rice - 1 cup rice, 2 cups water, 1 chicken breast... the chicken flavor permeates the rice, when you cook it together making them LIKE to eat it. (You can use Rice Pablum). Feed ONLY the rice mixture, for the first day after fasting. REMEMBER, if your dog has secondary Diarrhea. Uncontrolled watery squirts, YOU MUST get fluids into him/her. This can be done by syringe, or intravenously.

Another vet recommends a little bit of low fat plain yogurt and a little bit of low fat cottage cheese is added. CANNED Pumpkin is also known to help treat diarrhea... I give it to my lactating Dams.



I feed mine with this RICE mixture, three or more times during the day with small amounts of water.

You can also buy a tube of Nutri-Cal from the vet. It is a toothpaste type tube of Nutrition and Calories and will give a weak puppy, the sugars, nutrition and calories he needs. It is a very good, miracle pick me up paste.

3rd Day: You can start mixing in the chopped up boiled chicken with the rice. (You can also purchase a Gastro food from the vet, which is an easily digested food for this purpose, and start mixing that in too.) The Vet may recommend that you keep the dog on Gastro for quite a few days and then start mixing in his normal food over a period of a few days.

Sweet potatoes are also a natural stool hardener.

If your puppy or dog has diarrhea, that is getting WORSE, not better, call your vet ASAP and follow their advice.

Why do the Dogs Eat Poop , How to Stop It now

hi all, i think that is a good question :d

There are many types of poop eaters.

Some dogs only eat their own poop, other dogs love eating cat poop, and some special connoisseurs only enjoy grass-flavored poop, especially from horses and goats. Bird poop is also a delicacy that is in frequent demand by very many dogs.

If your dog is eating poop, you are definitely not alone.

It is actually a very common thing among dogs. Dogs are not humans, and they think and learn differently than we do. What smells good and what tastes good to them, can be very different from what smells good and tastes good to us.

However, for reasons of cleanliness and health (intestinal parasites), it is generally a good idea to stop your dog from eating poop.

Why Do Dogs Eat Poop

The most common reason for dogs to eat poop from other animals is simply because they enjoy the taste.

Other reasons for eating poop include stress, boredom, or a nutritional imbalance. When dogs eat their own poop it is usually because of one of these reasons.

1. Nutritional imbalance.

Poop eating can occur because the dog is lacking certain digestive enzymes. When this occurs, the dog will eat his own stool, to conserve those much needed enzymes. Studies have shown that insufficient vitamin B1 can cause stool eating.

Why Do Dogs Eat Poop - To relieve stress.

2. Stress.

Dogs will sometimes eat their own poop to relieve stress. This usually only occurs under extremely stressful conditions.

This has happened to my Shiba Inu twice; both times at the vet, when he was getting his shots. My Shiba Inu is extremely sensitive to handling, and to pain, so vet visits are always a high stress affair.

Different dogs will have different anxieties, fears and different stress triggers that may result in stool eating. For example, dogs with extreme separation anxiety may poop and then eat their own poop when left alone.

3. Boredom.

If dogs are left alone all day, with little very human contact, and very little to do; their only choice for self-entertainment may be to play with and eat their own poop.

Imagine if you were cooped up in the house all day with nothing to do; you would go a bit crazy as well. Think cabin fever and The Shining.

4. Curiosity.

Puppies or young dogs may eat poop out of curiosity. Everything is new to a puppy so he may want to explore and manipulate all that he sees with his mouth; including poop. It is best to teach a dog not to eat poop as early as possible, so that it does not become a habit when he grows up.

5. Helping to clean up the den.

Harsh potty training techniques may cause some dogs or puppies to eat their own poop in an effort to appease us or avoid painful punishment. Some dogs may also see us cleaning up their poop in the house (den) and try to mimic that behavior. This is why many trainers suggest that we do not clean up potty mistakes in front of our dogs.

Stop a Dog from Eating Poop

Here are some common techniques to stop your dog from eating poop -

1. Feed your dog a healthy and balanced diet.

This will keep your dog's digestive system healthy and provide him with all the nutrients that his body needs. An easy way to provide your dog with a balanced diet is through high quality dry kibble. Make sure your kibble has good protein sources; from meat rather than from grains, which are more difficult for our dogs to digest. Stay away from kibble that contains gluten (e.g. wheat gluten or corn gluten) which can cause intestinal issues and may contain contaminants.

2. Regular feeding schedule and supervision during poop time.

A regular eating schedule will also keep your dog's poop regular. This makes it easier to supervise and prevent your dog from eating his own poop. Scheduled feedings will also help to prevent overeating and obesity issues down the road.

3. Exercise your dog and keep him busy.

Play fun games with your dog, walk him regularly, and do frequent obedience training sessions. A well-exercised dog is better behaved at home and less likely to eat poop out of boredom.

Here are some common techniques to stop your dog from eating poop.

Try to reduce your own stress and keep your dog relaxed.

4. Keep the environment clean.

If there is no free poop lying about then your dog cannot engage in opportunistic poop eating.

5. Reduce stress.

Try to reduce your own stress and keep your dog relaxed. If you are calm, your dog will have an easier time staying calm as well. This results in a better quality of life for everyone, and will stop poop eating as a result of stress.

6. Teach your dog the "Leave-It" command.

This helps you teach your dog what are acceptable things to eat, and what are bad for his health. Some common house plants such as oleander are poisonous to our pets. Some common people food such as onions and chocolates are also poisonous to dogs.

7. Make the poop taste bad.

One of the most common ways to stop poop eating is to make the poop taste bad to your dog. However, this only works when you have full control of the environment. In addition, it only targets the symptoms of poop eating rather than addressing the issue at its source.

Frequently, poop eating starts at puppy-hood as a result of a puppy's curiosity. Therefore, supervise a puppy early on and teach him what are acceptable things to eat and that poop is not an acceptable hors d'œuvre.

Why the Dogs Lick Peoples

Ever wondered 'why dogs lick people'? Well, some call it affection, some call it purely biological phenomena, some call it inherent nature and many have their own answers. The truth however is a mixture of all these reasons..Let us find out that why our dogs have the habit of licking...

"Kevin returns home after some 10 hours of grueling work at his office. As soon as his car enters the gate and he parks it in the garage, his Labrador dog, Oskar gets overwhelmed with emotions (guess Oskar loves to see his master return home!).

As soon as Kevin steps out of the car, Oskar sticks his long tongue out in the quest to reach any part of Kevin's skin. Kevin appreciates the warm welcome from Oskar but this licking part often annoys him, especially, when the tongue reaches his face and Oskar gets busy licking it like a lollipop. Kevin intrigued by the daily licking habit of Oskar asked me in utter surprise, 'Why dogs lick people', Buzzle, with this article, is trying to help Kevin with the various possible answers of the question; 'why do dog's lick people so much'...

The Psychology Behind Dog's Licking People

Some people who are not much aware about the dog psychology, regard dog licking as the expression of love and bonding for their masters. While there is an element of truth in this presumption, it is not absolutely correct!

Some pet owners take a further step and describe dog licking as "kissing". Some others who understandably get annoyed by their dog's excessive licking habit, tend to hail it as a nuisance dog behavior. While not presuming anything and jumping to conclusions, we will go through all the possible reasons that are cited for this behavior of dogs.

Why Dogs Lick People #1: A Way to Express, to Communicate!

A school of thought describes dog licking as a way to communicate and express their affection and love for their near ones and masters. Since dogs can't speak, they express themselves more creatively by licking. Many times when you are with strangers, your dog may lick your palms or back of the hand as a step to show your bonding with the master.

They may not be very aggressive and start licking your face in front of the strangers, in fact they would be humble and would limit licking to hands. He may like to show to the stranger that you are closer to him and he/she cares for you! Great, isn't it? They're really caring. And like humans express their emotions by various means, they too may have devised this way of expressing themselves.

Why Dogs Lick People #2: Biological Reasons

It is not that dogs only lick people. The puppies and baby dogs are licked by their mothers in an attempt to groom them and also to establish a mother-baby bonding. In the initial years of the dog life, especially during first few months of birth, licking puppies is an important part of proper growth of the puppy. The puppies also lick the dog's mouth in the first few months, to let the mothers regurgitate the food. This is regarded as the stimulus for the mothers to vomit the food from their stomach.

Why do dogs lick people's faces or why dogs lick people's hands? Some people agree that dogs relish the taste of human sweat and bare arms (Okay, now don't go into the logic of it, as it is also one of the possible reasons!).

How to Stop Dogs From Excessive Licking?

It is true that you can't completely stop dogs from licking. You shouldn't do that because it is an instinctive nature that has evolved in their behavior. But then you can't let them lick excessively whenever they wish. So, you can adopt certain measures that prevents the dogs from licking excessively. When the dog starts licking, you should not encourage it too much. You should stand around, stand still and avoid giving attention to the dog.

You can keep an alarm to distract the attention of the dog when he starts licking. Press the alarm immediately when he starts licking and make him habitual to this sound. Slowly and steadily, with proper dog training, you can limit your dog's licking habits.

As we can see, there is no single answer for the question, 'why do dog's lick people' and so based on your own experiences, you too may have your interpretation of this question. Lastly, don't stress the dog for changing its habit of excessive licking. Slowly and steadily, with time, your dog can learn what you want to convey to him!

The answere of " why Do Dogs Eat Grass"

Your beloved canine companion clearly isn't a cow, so you might be confused when you see him eating grass. You might even be worried. Is he hungry? Bored? Sick? Will eating grass hurt him?

First, rest assured that you're not alone in your concern, especially if your dog is eating grass and vomiting.

Pica is the technical term for the disorder characterized by eating things that aren't food. Sometimes pica indicates that your dog has some type of nutritional deficiency, though it is often simply a sign of boredom, especially when practiced by puppies and younger dogs.

Dogs eating grass is actually quite common (it has been observed in wild dogs, too, and may be completely natural) and this form of pica does not usually cause too many problems. In fact, most veterinarians consider it a normal dog behavior. One small-scale study of 49 dog owners whose dogs had regular access to grass and other plants found that 79% of the dogs had eaten plants at some time. Another survey about plant-eating dogs found that grass was the most commonly eaten plant.

Why is my dog eating grass?

There are a variety of reasons your dog might be grazing on your lawn.

Some people propose that dogs might turn to eating grass when they don't feel well as a way to make themselves vomit, and then feel better. Others dispute this idea, on the basis that dogs are not proven to be smart enough to decide to treat an upset stomach by eating grass.

Evidence suggests that most dogs that eat grass aren't unwell beforehand, or at least they don't seem so. In fact, fewer than 10% of dogs seem to be sick before eating grass, according to their owners. And grass-eating doesn't usually lead to throwing up -- less than 25% of dogs that eat grass vomit regularly after grazing.

Other suggested reasons why your dog might be eating grass include improving digestion, treating intestinal worms, or fulfilling some unmet nutritional need, including the need for fiber. One published study reports on a miniature poodle that ate grass and then vomited every day for seven years. Three days after putting the dog on a high-fiber diet, the owner reported that the dog stopped eating grass entirely. And, of course, there is also the possibility that your dog simply likes the way grass tastes or feels.

Should I stop my dog from eating grass? If so, how?

If you suspect your dog is eating grass because he's bored, it might be beneficial to be sure he's getting enough exercise. Engage him in some fun activities. Try tossing a Frisbee or playing another interactive game with him, or buy him a sturdy chew toy to keep him occupied.

On the chance that your dog's pica behavior is caused by a nutritional deficiency, switching to a better dog food, especially a high-fiber variety, could help alleviate the problem.

Although most experts agree that grazing itself isn't harmful, one thing to keep in mind is that certain herbicides and pesticides used on lawns can be quite toxic, especially if ingested. In fact, fertilizers were one of the top 10 causes of pet poisoning in 2008. Additionally, a number of common house and garden plants are toxic, which could lead to problems if your dog munches on them along with the lawn. To make sure the plants in and around the area where your dog is eating grass aren't dangerous, check the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center web site, which maintains a list of toxic and non-toxic plants.

Litlle Dog Breeds That Don't Shed in the world

Consider dog breeds that shed less and avoid hair-covered furniture.

Q. I am interested in getting a dog but my wife doesn’t like the idea because they shed a lot. Can you suggest some dog breeds that don’t shed much?

A. Many people want a dog who does not shed because they have allergies. While this may not be your wife’s main concern, it is useful to note that most allergies are caused by dog dander, not the hair they shed. Dander is the dead skin that falls off the dog, depositing itself all over the house and wafting through the air into your nose and eyes in the process. All dogs produce dander, but some dogs produce a lot less of it.

Dogs also pick up pollen when outside, carrying it home to add to their owners’ allergy woes. The thicker the coat, the more they can carry. With that said, whether it’s housekeeping or allergens that pose a problem, you and your wife are in luck. There are many wonderful dog breeds that are neither heavy shedders nor copious allergen producers.

Among my favorites are:

* Airedale Terrier

* Basenji

* Bedlington Terrier

* Bichon Frise

* Bolognese

* Border Terrier

* Brussels Griffon

* Cairn Terrier

* Chinese Crested

* Cocker Spaniel-Poodle mix

* Coton de Tulear

* Havanese

* Irish Water Spaniel

* Kerry Blue Terrier

* Labrador Retriever-Poodle mix

* Lowchen

* Maltese

* Poodle (Toy, Miniature, and Standard)

* Portuguese Water Dog

* Puli

* Schnauzer (Miniature, Standard, and Giant)

* Schnauzer-Poodle mix

* Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier

* Tibetan Terrier

* West Highland White Terrier

* Wirehaired Fox Terrier

* Yorkshire Terrier

Many of these dog breeds have high-maintenance grooming needs, but are breeds that shed a significant amount less than others. As always, thorough research and evaluation of your lifestyle are important when selecting a dog breed. I wish you well in your search and hope you find the one that is just right for you!